Buderus Viessmann Sieger
De Dietrich BRE RE
Save the Raketenbrenner (blue flame burner)! My project : burner mixer repair ... " I cannot accept, that this thing repeatedly breaks! "
(5 Years Guarantee for our spare part - click here for more details of the guarantee)
The legal stuff is German law. If you buy this product it is according to German law. Going further than German law RIMA Innvations is giving a 5 year guarantee.(Impressum) .
Further questions will be answered here (if I ever translate this to english): FAQ - Fragen und Antworten and click here for the thingies that are welded onto the base Buderus RE 1.19, RE 22 etc.Update: as of July 2020 we have installed more than 6000 of our Inconel replacement parts... Success rate 99,7 %... please read the reviews on Amazon
This shows the first sign of the defect... pittings...
What to do ? I first I selected a material that is extremely heat resistant and is resistant to fuels . A friend who works at a turbine maintenance company told me I should try it with Inconel . This material is used for combustion nozzles of jet engines. So I learned on and selected the appropriate alloy . I wont tell which one I finally choose... there are many choices, but this is my " Intellectual Property" . Then I needed a production company ( not so easy) and gave tem my technical drawing / processing ( with DXF contour for the laser cutting machine ) and they build a very expensive prototypes. This I installed and waited . After some time (one heating season) I 've happily harvested the fruits of my labor . A permanent durable mixing system !!! The pics below show an Inconel Parts in size 1.1 (with a beautiful WIG weld)
This shows how a 1.2 size part looks when mounted
This picture zooms to the circulation tube ...
no wear after more than 7000 liters of low sulfur oil
Only the ignition electrodes are burnt a little... which is o.k.
If you need these, buy them on Amazon - that should be the easiest:
1.0 = 17 KW (Lenght of the zylindrical part: 25mm, Buderus
Length L=30 incl. the 5mm feet)
click here to order
1.1 = 21 KW (Lenght of the zylindrical part: 32mm, Buderus Length L=37 incl. the 5mm feet)
click here to order
1.2= 28 KW (Lenght of the zylindrical part: 37mm, Buderus Length L=42 incl. the 5mm feet)
also fits for 1.3 35 KW and 1.4 43 KW)
Attention ! If you have a 1.2 28 KW burner you need to measure the length before ordering a spare part.
Buderus changed the documentation during the production years. So you need to measure the right length.
You should order the same size that worked fine for you over the last years.
click here to order
Ouside diameter is 38 mm wall thickness is 1 mm
If you need help send us an e-mail firstname.lastname@example.org
If you are a company and need more parts please contact us.
Volksbank Lüneburger Heide
Konto Nr.: 7302786300
I started the project out of technical interest and
with the idea that my son should learn a little about market and economy
etc.. Now we have a hobby company and pay sales tax , etc.
We sold more than 2000 pieces ... 99.43 % of customers are perfectly satisfied.
The motivation to go on comes through the many letters of appreciation.
Please write if you are satisfied or if you have any suggestions for improvement.
Here is the text from the repair manual (the video describes everything - but in German) : Buderus MAN Raketenbrenner BRE 1.0 , 1.1 , 1.2 repair manual for the air flow of the mixed system The replacement part is made of Inconel , which should last 20 years versus burnup etc. ... This material is referred to as " Super Alloy" and normally used for the combustion nozzle of jet engines and gas turbines Here are the steps : Remove the mixing system . Loosen the set screw with a long Allen wrench , holding the mixing system on the nozzle . Disconnect spark plug wire . Remove the ignition before removing the Luftleitrohres ... ( because that can easily be damaged otherwise ) to use a well fitting Phillips bit ... or turning the small nut with a pair of pliers Additional Tools : punch, small hammer With a good flat nose pliers small metal tabs straighten ( or with the small straight punch hammer ) and then remove the old air guide . Then the new air duct pipe stuck in the slots . Weld up ... on the electrode side ... because I think the fuel oil at Burning ( ignition switched off ) drops down and then the bottom of the air duct , if necessary . generates more stress . Whether this is really so I could not verify empirically . Carefully bend with a suitable punch the latches to the outside ... Video of 4Frischlinge or here is the link: