Buderus Viessmann Sieger De Dietrich BRE RE

Solving the problem of the (blue flame burner) oil burner mixer system

Update 15.7.2020   the German page is updated more frequently

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Save the Raketenbrenner (blue flame burner)! My project : burner mixer repair ... " I cannot accept, that this thing repeatedly breaks! "

(5 Years Guarantee for our spare part - click here for more details of the guarantee)

The legal stuff
is German law. If you buy this product it is according to German law. Going further than German law RIMA Innvations is giving a 5 year guarantee.(Impressum) .

Further questions will be answered here (if I ever translate this to english): FAQ  - Fragen und Antworten  and click here for the thingies that are welded onto the base Buderus RE 1.19, RE 22 etc. 

Update:  as of July 2020 we have installed more than 6000 of our Inconel replacement parts... Success rate 99,7 %... please read the reviews on Amazon

Here's my tale of woe about my heater system . Certainly, others have the same problems . A few years ago light ( low sulfur ) oil was introduced . Unfortunately, that does not go well with the mixing system of the otherwise very clean and efficient , Buderus , Viessmann, Sieger, De Deitrich, MAN (blue flame burner) Raketenbrenner. I couple of times I had the mixing system on my Buderus burner repaired. And the first two times a visits by the heater emergency service was needed: Expensive, expensive ... As an engineer, I thought to myself, " That can not be ... " and I first asked Buderus how long this mixer should last and if they had a durable solution. An official sensible answer did not come. Then I looked closer I at the problem and bought a few original mixing systems from Buderus on Ebay and learned how to change them myself.
This is completely easy... max . 30 minutes working time . Unfortunately, the mixer still did not last long. I have an old house with a huge oil consumption , which is about 5,000 liters per year) . The burn down has nothing to do with the adjustment of the oil nozzle. I tested this and adjusted it differently and changed it after every 5,000 liters. It is the light fuel oil , which burns cleaner and hotter than the old fuel oil with sulfur contents . This caused the burn . Here is a picture looks of a burned down mixer. Normally, the thing bends but earlier and leads to ignition problems . And you have to call the service.


This shows the first sign of the defect... pittings...


What to do ? I first I selected a material that is extremely heat resistant and is resistant to fuels . A friend who works at a turbine maintenance company told me I should try it with Inconel . This material is used for combustion nozzles of jet engines. So I learned on and selected the appropriate alloy . I wont tell which one I finally choose... there are many choices, but this is my " Intellectual Property" . Then I needed a production company ( not so easy) and gave tem my technical drawing / processing ( with DXF contour for the laser cutting machine ) and they build a very expensive prototypes. This I installed and waited . After some time (one heating season) I 've happily harvested the fruits of my labor . A permanent durable mixing system !!! The pics below show an Inconel Parts in size 1.1 (with a beautiful WIG weld)

  

This shows how a 1.2 size part looks when mounted

After the durability was assured , I had produced a small number of these parts.
Here's a look into my burner ... the particles on the inside of the large tube are remains of burnt air guide tubes.
You can get rid of this with a small wire brush ...

This picture zooms to the circulation tube ... no wear after more than 7000 liters of low sulfur oil
Only the ignition electrodes are burnt a little... which is o.k.

If you need these, buy them on Amazon - that should be the easiest:

1.0 = 17 KW (Lenght of the zylindrical part: 25mm, Buderus Length  L=30 incl. the 5mm feet)
click here to order
1.0   17KW


1.1 = 21 KW (Lenght of the zylindrical part: 32mm, Buderus Length  L=37 incl. the 5mm feet)
click here to order
1.1   21KW


1.2= 28 KW (Lenght of the zylindrical part: 37mm, Buderus Length  L=42 incl. the 5mm feet)
also fits for 1.3 35 KW and 1.4 43 KW)

Attention ! If you have a 1.2 28 KW burner you need to measure the length before ordering a spare part.
Buderus changed the documentation during the production years. So you need to measure the right length.
You should order the same size that worked fine for you over the last years.
click here to order
1.2-1.4   28-43KW

Ouside diameter is 38 mm wall thickness is 1 mm


If you need help send us an e-mail mfp@jpf.de

If you are a company and need more parts please contact us.

Matthias Frische
Volksbank Lüneburger Heide
Konto Nr.: 7302786300
BLZ 24060300
 
 
für Auslandsüberweisungen
IBAN DE96240603007302786300
BIC GENODEF1NBU
 

I started the project out of technical interest and with the idea that ​my son should learn a little about market and economy etc.. Now we have a hobby company and pay sales tax , etc. We sold more than 2000 pieces ... 99.43 % of customers are perfectly satisfied. The motivation to go on comes through the many letters of appreciation. Please write if you are satisfied or if you have any suggestions for improvement.

Here is the text from the repair manual (the video describes everything - but in German) : Buderus MAN Raketenbrenner BRE 1.0 , 1.1 , 1.2 repair manual for the air flow of the mixed system The replacement part is made ​​of Inconel , which should last 20 years versus burnup etc. ... This material is referred to as " Super Alloy" and normally used for the combustion nozzle of jet engines and gas turbines Here are the steps : Remove the mixing system . Loosen the set screw with a long Allen wrench , holding the mixing system on the nozzle . Disconnect spark plug wire . Remove the ignition before removing the Luftleitrohres ... ( because that can easily be damaged otherwise ) to use a well fitting Phillips bit ... or turning the small nut with a pair of pliers Additional Tools : punch, small hammer With a good flat nose pliers small metal tabs straighten ( or with the small straight punch hammer ) and then remove the old air guide . Then the new air duct pipe stuck in the slots . Weld up ... on the electrode side ... because I think the fuel oil at Burning ( ignition switched off ) drops down and then the bottom of the air duct , if necessary . generates more stress . Whether this is really so I could not verify empirically . Carefully bend with a suitable punch the latches to the outside ... Video of 4Frischlinge or here is the link:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qkgktodjNR8

The replacement part is not (stainless steel or heat-resistant steel which are both not really enduring in our rocket burner , but its made from INCONEL ... Here is an excerpt from Wikipedia : Inconel alloys are often used in areas with extremely high temperature stress . Compressor and turbine blades and combustion chambers in gas turbines are typical applications . The outer skin of the aircraft missile X-15 or some different parts of the Airbus A380 was also constructed with one of the alloys . Welding with TIG method . As an alternative to the pure spare parts for self-assembly offers the RIMA Innovations GbR upon request a repair service . WE install the replacement part ( see photo and video ) on your defective mixing system ... we just need the base plate with the burnt part and then run like in the video by the assembly for you and send it back to you . Your defective mixing system, you must send in this variant at your expense to us . This will cost 110 EUR. Postage of shipping to you is always included. Tags : Problem MAN Buderus winner Blue Burner De Dietrich Raketenbrenner BRE 1.0 1.1 1.2 1.3 1.4 mixing system Here is a picture of the three sizes we make.

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